Retinol 101
So here we are… probably just about hanging in there at this point. Cooped up inside, browsing the internet, trying to work from home, wondering when anything will open. I’m right there with you. You are most likely missing your injectors, and I feel confident in saying - they 100% miss you too. So what can you be using right now in the comfort of your home (and well forever) to help with aging?! Retinol. To be honest, a few people have asked me to do a review on retinol, and I was kind of shocked I haven’t already!? It is a super popular product, one of the most important ones to incorporate into your routine. Half the battle of using skincare is knowing what the heck you are supposed to do with it. Retinol 101 is here.
WHAT ARE RETINOIDS:
Retinoids are a class of medications that are chemically derived from vitamin A. The term retinoid is an umbrella term for over the counter retinol and prescription retinoids. Retinoids regulate epithelial cell growth and rate of proliferation. What will they do for you? Decrease fine lines and wrinkles, increase collagen production, and increase cell turnover. Topical retinoids also play a role in preventing further degradation of the dermal cells that have been damaged by UV exposure; therefore, are very effective at slowing and preventing photo-aging due to UV exposure. Retinoids act as comedolytic agents and work by unclogging blocked pores, essentially exfoliating your skin. They work alongside topical antibiotics to allow them to enter the pore and eradicate the underlying bacteria causing the acne breakout.
The different topical retinoids available today are: retinol, tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, alitretinoin, and bexarotene. These come in cream, gel, and liquid forms.
PRESCRIPTION VS OVER THE COUNTER
Retinoids are both prescription and over the counter. Over the counter retinoids contain a lower concentration of the active retinoic acid ingredient, compared to prescriptions. Over-the-counter retinols are in ester forms such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinaldehyde, propionic acid, or retinyl acetate. It takes more steps for these ester forms to be converted to the active retinoic acid. The more conversions, the ‘weaker’ the product. If you are using an over the counter retinol, that is great, it just will take a bit longer to see results. Differin is the retinoid adapalene and was previously a prescription product to treat acne. Now it is considered the first retinoid to be sold over the counter.
SIDE EFFECTS:
The most common side effect reported is dryness. Others report skin redness, scaling of the skin, and itching. Obviously, the higher the dose and concentration, the more likely you will experience these symptoms. I often recommend using a moisturizer 10-20 minutes after applying your retinol to combat skin dryness. In fact, the peeling and dryness is often what deters people from continuing to use the product. It takes time for your skin to acclimate to the product. Many over the counter retinol products contain other ingredients such as moisturizer or antioxidants, which lessen the side effects.
HOW + WHEN TO USE RETINOL:
There are no true guidelines on how early you can start a retinoid, but if you are worrying about wrinkles, I say it is time to start doing something to prevent them. In your late 20s, your cell turnover starts to slow, so it is a key product to introduce into your routine.
As for application, most retinoids are not photo/sun-light stable, aka you should only use at night. I suggest patients to begin with a pea-size amount once weekly and increase frequency as tolerated. Apply the retinol product to the entire face and neck (yes, neck too!). You probably are like, “Bridget - a pea size amount is not enough.” I am telling you - it is! Wait ten to twenty minutes for the retinol to completely absorb and then apply a small amount of moisturizer. It takes about 2 day for cells to regenerate, therefore peeling may not be seen the following day. Personally, twice a week works for me - Monday & Thursday are my tretinion days. While using retinol, it is absolutely necessary to wear sunscreen durning the day.
PREGNANCY + RETINOL:
Is a no go. Herbivore's bakuchiol is a fabulous retinol alternative for those who want an anti-aging treatment.
RETINOL SUGGESTIONS:
SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0 ($88)
RoC Deep Wrinkle Night Cream ($25)
Sunday Riley Luna Retinol Sleeping Night Oil ($105)
Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion ($50)
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($77)